Tracy Press

Publisher emeritus Sam Matthews is safe from China’s earthquake and sends in his second installment from overseas.

CHONGQIN, China — We first heard about the earthquake that struck the northern part of Sichuan Province when we arrived the airport at Guilin in southern China. We had been on a bus traveling to the airport when the earthquake occurred, and we didn’t feel a thing.

After leaving Guilin, we have come north to Chongqin (Chungking, in the old spelling) to begin a three-day cruise on the Yangtze River leading to the giant Three Gorges Dam. But before we came here, we left Beijing to visit Xian and then Guilin, located in two very different parts of China.

XIAN — When many people hear of Xian (pronounced "zee-ann"), they think of the terra cotta warriors. The warriors are certainly near here, where they have stood guard for centuries, but there is more to Xian than the clay soldiers.

Xian is not exactly a small town; it has an urban population of about 4 million and surrounding area of another 3 million. But compared with Beijing, with its massive high-rise construction, Xian is more integrated, with a blend of modern and traditional buildings.

The city is in the valley of the Wei River, which flows into the Yellow River just east of Xian. The valley is fertile, with a great deal of winter wheat, apple orchards and row crops in the fields.

Xian, for centuries the capital of China, is one of the few cities in China to retain its original walls, massive 40-foot brick structures built in the 16th century. The moat outside the walls is now a grassy lineal park. Inside, we had lunch at a restaurant featuring miniature dumplings with a variety of fillings — a local specialty and a change from traditional Chinese food.

We took in some of the local culture at the provincial museum, one of the best in China, featuring many artifacts from the Tang Dynasty (618 AD through 909 AD). That evening, we saw a music-and-dance performance with dramatic costuming and scenery, also focusing on the Tang Dynasty.

A stop at the Giant Wilde Good Pagoda gave us a chance to consider religion in China. Once discouraged, it is now accepted, and Buddhism is the strongest. A group of local musicians were playing traditional Chinese instruments near the pagoda, and some of our group, including a soprano from Tracy, pitched in and sang a verse of "This Land is Your Land."

A highlight of our visit to Xian was a stop at the University of International Studies, where we heard a professor talk about Chinese’s rapid development and the pluses in the standard of living and minuses in heavy use of natural resources and pollution — gray haze is an everyday reality. We were then paired with English-language students, and I walked through the campus with Nora Wang, a first-year student who spoke English quite well.

Learning English is important to finding a career in government, business or tourism, especially for young women, who find employment more difficult to come by than young men.

These terra cotta warriors are in display stateside, but Sam Matthews observed them in their original location in China. Associated Press

The warriors were formed from terra cotta clay around 220 B.C. by China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, who united the country by defeating six other nations in fierce battles. He wanted the clay army to protect him in his afterlife.

The clay figures, at least 6 feet tall, are located in three "pits." The largest contains 2,000 unearthed warriors standing in rank and file, and there is a potential to find another 3,000 in future years.

We circled the army on perimeter walkways, snapping photos along with many other tourists from around the world, including a number of Chinese. We also saw excavation work next door at Pits 2 and 3, where some of the figures are intact, while others are in pieces. The amazing thing is that every face is different!

In the adjacent souvenir shop, one of the farmers who discovered the warriors in 1974 was autographing books.

GUILIN — From Xian we flew south to Guilin, located in the Guangzi Province in southern China abutting the border with Vietnam.

As the plane neared the airport, I could see there were not wheat fields below, but rice paddies. This is a major rice-growing area of southern China along the Li River.

The other thing I quickly noticed were the many sandstone hills jutting up from the rice paddies. Many had rounded tops and were covered with foliage, while others had craggy peaks. It is a strange sight indeed, one unique in this vast country with a wide variety of topography.

At Guilin (pronouced "gay-lynn," the best I can determine), we took a boat on the Li (Lee) River 40 miles through the sandstone hills to Yangshuo. The boat had 100 passengers, including groups from the U.S. (ours), France and Japan. Plenty of photos were taken of the spectacular views through the hills and gorges along the way.

At Yangshuo, a smaller town filled with tourists arriving by river boat, we were housed at the Paradise Hotel, a beautifully landscaped facility fronted by a small lake — and, best of all, with a swimming pool!

The next morning, we drove out in small tourist buses into the countryside. The rice growing in the paddies will be harvested in late July and August, and a second crop harvested in November. Most of the rice is for local consumption. Groves of Mandarin oranges and other crops abound in the Li River Valley.

In the village of Jai Shan, we stopped by the home of Mor da Mei, an 83-year-old widow, who showed us through her modest quarters. She has a son and three grandsons living in the town nearby. They help her plant and harvest rice. Her home has had electricity since 1985 and has its own water well.

So, after heading north again to Chongqin, we are ready to embark on another river voyage — this one on the Yangtze. We have had good weather so far, and the forecast is for smooth sailing.

• Sam Matthews, Tracy Pres publisher emeritus, is traveling in China. He will return home Wednesday.

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written by k.l .vosburg , May 17, 2008

Sam -The pixs and stories are excellent.
My question pertains to the alegged global "urbanizing" of China:

Is it true that beyond the major attempt to
"Westernize" or modernize the major cities, three fourth's of the population still live in rural and quazi Serfdom conditions as "subjets" of the Communist policies?

Is the pollution as bad, as been reprted? "Grey haze is an everyday reality."

How are Americans recieved/percieved?

Where you are - are you safe - did you see any further evidence from the earthquakes/aftershocks? Does the military make itself readily visiible?

Does the rate-of-exchange on currency make China a viable tourist destination. How difficult's the language barrier?

How's the food?

Thanks, Kurt.

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written by amy , May 17, 2008

So glad no harm came to Sam Matthews.

Such an interesting article, enjoyed it so much.

Good questions, k.l. vosburg!

also... the price of gas, food and the average yearly wages of Chinese employees, (any benefits for them?) in our outsourced factories, thank you. -amy
P.S. Include the cost of meal and accommotation would be appreciated for future vacation planners.

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written by amy , May 17, 2008

correcting my spelling...accomodations.. gee!

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written by k.l .vosburg , May 17, 2008

Memo:
To fanclub,
Stop the HAPPINESS...

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written by amy , May 19, 2008

Just loved this picture of the horse and the warrior, so hauntingly beautiful!! Do TP sell pictures?

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written by Cheri Matthews, editor , May 19, 2008

We do sell our photos (see "Buy Photos" button at top left, but this one was an Associated Press photo. For information on buying AP photos, try this: http://www.apimages.com/unsecu...l_use.html

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written by amy , May 20, 2008

Thank you so much Cheri Matthews!