|
Publisher emeritus Sam Matthews shares his travels through China, including a jaunt on the Great Wall and some views of Olympic Stadium.
 Work continues on Olympic Stadium in Beijing just two weeks before Sam Matthews arrives in the country. Associated Press
The visit to the Great Wall and a look at the Olympic Stadium and swim complex provided a glimpse at the ancient and today's China — a contrast that will greet visitors to the Olympic Games that will begin in less than three months (Aug. 8 to be exact).
Here are some of the many divergent aspects of Beijing that I've been able to see in the past four days — the start of an 18-day tour of China.
Terminal 3
When Olympic visitors arrive at Beijing Capital International Airport, they will be wowed by the new Terminal 3 that was put into full use just six weeks ago. The massive terminal, designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster, is billed as the largest and most advanced airline facility in the world — and it is that, in spades.
The building is huge, covering the equivalent of 40 football fields, and it is soaring, with a sweeping architectural style that provides several huge multilevel indoor halls supported by a series of white columns. A driverless people-mover takes incoming passengers to the baggage area, where an automated baggage-handling system actually works!
The $3.8 billion project was completed in four years and shows the determination of the Chinese government to make a dramatic impression on incoming visitors. It does that indeed.
Beijing gets ready
On the Airport Expressway leading to the center of the city, major landscaping projects, some still just being completed, provide a green corridor for visitors. The landscaping is extensive, with rows of trees, shrubs and flowerbeds. Once inside the city, the use of flowers becomes more intensive.
Beijing is a city of about 15 million residents that has been transformed in a major way during the past 30 years, especially the past decade. The number of high-rise government and private buildings is astonishing and caught my attention right away. Some of the work is still in progress at the Olympics draw near, but Beijing will put on a bright, modern face for the visitors.
Traffic is an increasing problem in Beijing, home to 3 million cars. But the expressways and the wide boulevards built in recent years permit the traffic to flow, even if sometimes at a slow-and-go pace.
City officials have launched a massive clean-up campaign, removing many blemishes to the architectural landscape. The streets are washed clean, and there is no graffiti. Residents have been told not to spit on the street — an old practice — and to watch for foreign pedestrians crossing roads.
The ever-present pollution-caused haze is a continuing concern. Smoke-producing industries will be shut down for the Olympics to help clear the air. Starting May 1, smoking has been banned in Beijing’s public places.
The hutong
Many of the old neighborhoods have been replaced by high-rises, but a number still remain. What are called hutong are neighborhoods filled with ramshackle, single-story cinder-block dwellings built around courtyards. For centuries, they have formed the core of Beijing life.
We visited one hutong, where we had lunch with a family and toured a kindergarten for preschool children. The hutong had narrow passageways where life was bustling for residents. Small stores, eateries and bicycle-repair shops dot the alleyways.
An effort is being made to save some historical hutong, but many will be gone in future years as the modernization of the ancient capital continues.
Forbidden City
Just north of Tiananmen Square, site of the abortive 1979 democracy movement, lies Forbidden City, which for centuries was home to the Chinese royalty before the revolution of 1911.
We took three hours to see some of the high points, walking north from Meridian Gate past three other huge gates and through giant courtyards to the former living quarters of the Chinese royalty. A visit to Forbidden City is a must for any visitors, and it is truly an amazing place — one of the largest and most unique former royal palaces in the world.
Olympic Park
Although a visit to Olympic Park in northern Beijing was not on our Elderhostel tour schedule, we hired a cab and drove there to take a look. What we saw from the side of the road — access to the park itself is not yet allowed — were two unusual buildings. The 91,000-seat stadium is dubbed the Bird's Nest, because of its unusual steel mesh exterior. Next to it is the aquatics center, called the Water Cube because of its rectangular shape and translucent blue, air-filled plastic walls.
The main buildings are reported to be completed, but there is still much work to be done on the parking lots and landscaped areas that surround them. Workers were busy the day we visited, and I'm sure they will be right up to August.
The Great Wall
And yes, we did climb the Great Wall of China, a least a few hundred yards of the walls that once stretched 3,000 miles along the hills north of Beijing.
We weren't alone. There were many others — Chinese and foreigners alike — making the climb that day. Some were in small groups and many were in tour groups. It's one of the traditions that must be a part of a visit to this ancient land with a rapidly changing face.
Next: We head to Xi'an to see the terra-cotta warriors, and then off to the Yangtze River and the Three Gorges Dam.
•Sam Matthews, Tracy Press publisher emeritus, is touring China.
Trackback(0)
 |
TrackBack URI for this entry
Subscribe to this comment's feed
Show/Hide comments
